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PostPosted: Sun Mar 23, 2014 4:04 pm 
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Location: Illinois, USA
Wilda Greenbough wrote:
Your eagles are beautiful. They are amazing models and you've done an excellent job with painting their feathers.
I'm afraid that painting feathers and wings is something that I've tended to struggle with, but after seeing how you've painted your eagles I'll give your method a try.

Thanks! Just keep it simple and remember: washes for the win!

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 25, 2014 4:01 am 
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Bolt Thrower wrote:
As I was researching them, I saw some striking models where the edges of the base and the tray itself were just plain black.
I do all mine in black because of what Ptolemy said...
Ptolemy wrote:
but I do agree a framing color is better.

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 25, 2014 4:20 am 
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Black definitely seems the way to go for me. It really makes the mini pop. I think the trays will just be black to match as well.

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 27, 2014 3:20 am 
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I'm going to be needing another bottle of plastic glue as mine is pretty much shot and starting to be way too thick and dry. It was the GW plastic glue thick. I'd like to try something else so thought I'd get some feedback on what you use.

Features I liked about the GW plastic glue was the very fast dry time, so that is a must. I am thinking of using Testor's Model Master cement for plastic. Does anyone have experience with this? Some other favorite?

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 27, 2014 3:51 am 
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I use Testor's Model Master....but.....why?

Maybe I'm nuts, but I DON'T want that permanent a join in my plastics. I'm constantly ripping off arms and heads and shields and so on and re-purposing them later on. With super glue, you can do that. With plastic glue, forget it.

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 27, 2014 3:57 am 
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I've used Zap CA+. Strong, but not permanent and fills gaps in the plastic well that green stuff isn't necessary for the small gaps.

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 27, 2014 7:40 am 
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I use some generic plastic glue from an arts and crafts store. Works wonderfully. In my experience it doesn't matter too much, as long as you avoid GW glues. I like a lot of the GW products, but their glues are (in my experience at least) awfull. The main thing to consider, besides drying time and strength, is mode of application. It's either with a brush or with a nozzle on the bottle in my experience.

Rod

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 27, 2014 8:20 am 
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GW Plastic Glue Thick

--but then I'm just a beginner

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 27, 2014 10:52 am 
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rdghuizing wrote:
I use some generic plastic glue from an arts and crafts store. Works wonderfully. In my experience it doesn't matter too much, as long as you avoid GW glues. I like a lot of the GW products, but their glues are (in my experience at least) awfull. The main thing to consider, besides drying time and strength, is mode of application. It's either with a brush or with a nozzle on the bottle in my experience.

Rod


I mostly use the testors model master (works really well as long as you follow the instructions) but I have to agree with rod here. The only plastic glue I've ever had a problem with is GW stuff. Craft stuff, hardware store stuff, generic, fancy brand, it's all worked fine.


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 27, 2014 2:10 pm 
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Great feedback, all, on such a simple but important piece of hobbying. Before GW came out with the thick and thin versions, I didn't have a problem with their glue--other than cost, but I gamed there more often so I tried to buy small things there once in a while. But then I bought the thick and it is nigh unusable now as it doesn't flow out at all.

I'm going to go with Testor's and see how it goes. Shadow warriors and Sisters of Avelorn are next on the assembly table!

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PostPosted: Sat Mar 29, 2014 7:07 pm 
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I second Ptolemy; I only use super glue (Army Painter for now since I bought a few of their warpaints as well) so that I can rip off what I need to remove. And with my habit of getting glue everywhere but where I want, my plastic models aren't damaged by wayward plastic glue.

Also, yay red high elves. At last! I was sick of the blue. :lol:


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 27, 2015 9:23 pm 
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So, I completed my April challenge which was really a way to force me back into a painting mood. Like many of us, I'm sure, the transition from 8th to 9th has put a damper on my Warhammer spirits. I just feel a bit lost on what to do. So, the contest I entered was all about re-kindling my hobby spirit. Combine that with some warmer weather heading my way and I think it worked. You can see my April challenge for that contest here: http://www.ulthuan.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=68777&start=30#p902130

Now, the rewards for everyone in that contest was that we could choose which model we wanted to keep. The first place finisher chose first, then second place, etc. I ended up landing an Alarielle model, which I am excited about despite having no idea if it will be worth its weight in "finecrap" next edition. That said, the paintjob on it does not suit me, so I need to strip it. I've found plenty of resources on plastics and metals paint stripping, but the finecast resin seems to have a mixed bag of what works and what doesn't. I'm leaning towards simple green vs. brake fluid simply for disposal/environmental reasons. But I thought I'd ask Ulthuan experts if you have any recommendations, cautions, etc. for stripping paint from a finecast model. Thanks!

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 27, 2015 11:19 pm 
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Oh boy. I've never stripped a fine cast model. However I did put some paint on a finecast sprue and put it in some break fluid as a test. It swelled, and got very soft. I'd not try it on a model.

My next test will be just some water and some pine cleaner.

I hate fine cast.


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 28, 2015 12:44 am 
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Shannar, Sealord wrote:
Oh boy. I've never stripped a fine cast model. However I did put some paint on a finecast sprue and put it in some break fluid as a test. It swelled, and got very soft. I'd not try it on a model.

My next test will be just some water and some pine cleaner.

I hate fine cast.

Much appreciated! I don't have a spruce around to test and the model I'm getting is already assembled, so your tests are most welcome.

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